Drill and countersink inboard top skin and wing walk doublers

Match drill #40 rivet holes for nut plates along inboard edge.

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Final drilled #19 the screw holes and dimpled the one furthest aft.

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Final drilled #40 and countersunk all of the holes in the skin that are common to the wing walk doublers.

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Disassembled everything.

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Today’s Time (hours): 2.0
Wing Time (hours): 71.0
Total Time (hours): 282.0

More work on rear spar

Final drilled #30 the spar, doublers, rib flanges, and aileron hinge attachments.

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Machine countersunk the flange holes where they match up to the doublers.img_2317

 

Machine countersunk the doubler plates. Also drilled the attach hole to 11/32 after this photo was taken. I need to pick up a 3/8″ reamer to finish the attach holes in the fork and doubler once they’re matched up and riveted to the spar.

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Dimpled all the #40 holes in both flanges of the rear spar.img_2316

Everything is ready to prime and assemble when I get back from Sun n Fun next week. Pretty happy with this weeks progress.

Today’s Time (hours): 1.0
Wing Time (hours): 60.0
Total Time (hours): 271.0

More rib work

I set the spars on the work benches opposite one another and removed all the bolts.

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It went a lot quicker when I remembered I had an impact driver in the tool box.

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There are a whole bunch of bolts in the spars.

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Back to the ribs… Deburring holes and dimpling the bottom flanges.

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Today’s Time (hours): 4.0
Wing Time (hours): 38.5
Total Time (hours): 249.5

 

Attached vertical stabilizer tip

I final drilled all the holes to #30, dimpled them, machine countersunk the holes in the fiberglass, and blind riveted the tip to the VS. I detached the rudder from the VS and put the VS aside. Won’t be needing it again for a long time.

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I marked the rudder bottom fairing and cut the hole for the tail light with the Dremel tool.

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Used the sanding drum on the Dremel to finish up the hole.

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I primed the outside of the doubler with SEM rattle can primer.

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I mixed up some flox and used it to adhere the doubler to the rudder fairing.

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I blind riveted it in place. I’ll clean it up with sand paper once it has cured.

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Today’s Time (hours): 1.5
Empennage Time (hours): 211.0
Total Time (hours): 211.0

 

Attached top rudder tip

I was away in south Florida all last week for work. Good trip but glad to get back in the shop today.

I final-fit the top tip to the rudder with some sand paper. I match drilled #40 all of the holes.

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I final drilled the holes to #30.

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I machine countersunk the holes in the tip to fit the dimples in the skin.

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I dimpled the holes in the skin.

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I attached the tip to the rudder with the pneumatic pop rivet gun.

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Et viola…

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I attached the rudder to the vertical stabilizer on the workbench. I fit the VS tip with sandpaper and match drilled all the holes #40.

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I used the band saw to cut some foam to back the fiberglass closeout. I test fit the assembly to the VS and used sand paper to gradually reduce the size of the foam until I got an interference fit.

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I mixed up some epoxy resin with glass micro bubbles to . nice thick paste that wouldn’t run.

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…and used it to glue the foam into place.

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Today’s Time (hours): 1.5
Empennage Time (hours): 206.5
Total Time (hours): 206.5

 

Sanded and attached horizontal stabilizer tips

Sanded and fit the HS tip to fit. Before I paint the airplane, these will need to be filled and finish sanded.

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Final drilled #30, dimpled the skins, and machine countersunk the tip.

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I picked up a pneumatic rivet puller at Harbor Freight yesterday. I used it to set the rivets and attach the tips.  So much nicer the the manual puller!

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This completes the work on the horizontal stabilizer and elevators. So I’ve moved them to a safe place until I’m ready to final attach them at the end of the build.

Today’s Time (hours): 1.5
Empennage Time (hours): 205.0
Total Time (hours): 205.0

 

Attached right elevator tip

Same drill as as the left tip… Final drilled #30, remove counterweights, dimple reinstall and torque counterweights, countersink tip, cleco, and pop rivet.

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Tada

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I used this bit on the Dremel to cut some fiberglass and phone out of the middle of the HS tip to correct the fitting issue I mentioned yesterday. Not a precision instrument. At least not in my hands. But it got the job done.

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I added a temporary foam block to hold the correct width.

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I used some masking tape to compress to the correct width. And adjusted to an interference fit with the HS skin.

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Cut some cloth to fit the inside of the tip.

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Added epoxy and set aside to cure. Once it’s hard, I’ll remove the temporary foam spacer and backfill the gap I cut with micro at the same time I fill the front side.

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Today’s Time (hours): 2.0
Empennage Time (hours): 203.0
Total Time (hours): 203.0