Started riveting the outboard leading edge to left wing

Clecoed the outboard leading edge assembly to the left wing assembly.

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Blind riveted the leading edge ribs to the main spar.

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I set the the wing upright on the workbench and riveted the leading edge skin to the lower flange of the main spar.

I need a bucking partner to get the upper flange. Hopefully Remy will be available tomorrow evening.

Today’s Time (hours): 2.0
Wing Time (hours): 122.0
Total Time (hours): 333.0

 

Riveted outboard leading edge to right wing

Completed the right outboard leading edge by riveting the landing light bracket and J channel stiffener in place.

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Clecoed the outboard leading edge to the right wing.

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Blind riveted the leading edge ribs to the main spar. I couldn’t get the rivet puller square to the river so I fabricated a wedge to safely pull the rivets at an angle. Thanks to Jared for the reminder on this technique. I had originally read about it in section 5 but had forgotten. I ended up using a piece of left over trailing edge wedge. I cut of a small section about half an inch long and drilled a hole in it to accommodate the tail of the blind rivet.

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Riveted the leading edge skin to the bottom flange of the main spar.

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Riveted the leading edge skin to the top flange of the main spar. Remy bucked for me.

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I made a home depot run and picked up a bunch to 2×4’s to construct a wing cradle.

I messed up and stripped a couple of screws that I used to attach the inspection plate to the left leading edge. Need to order a screw extractor.

Today’s Time (hours): 3.0
Wing Time (hours): 116.0
Total Time (hours): 327.0

 

Attached vertical stabilizer tip

I final drilled all the holes to #30, dimpled them, machine countersunk the holes in the fiberglass, and blind riveted the tip to the VS. I detached the rudder from the VS and put the VS aside. Won’t be needing it again for a long time.

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I marked the rudder bottom fairing and cut the hole for the tail light with the Dremel tool.

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Used the sanding drum on the Dremel to finish up the hole.

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I primed the outside of the doubler with SEM rattle can primer.

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I mixed up some flox and used it to adhere the doubler to the rudder fairing.

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I blind riveted it in place. I’ll clean it up with sand paper once it has cured.

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Today’s Time (hours): 1.5
Empennage Time (hours): 211.0
Total Time (hours): 211.0

 

Attached top rudder tip

I was away in south Florida all last week for work. Good trip but glad to get back in the shop today.

I final-fit the top tip to the rudder with some sand paper. I match drilled #40 all of the holes.

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I final drilled the holes to #30.

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I machine countersunk the holes in the tip to fit the dimples in the skin.

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I dimpled the holes in the skin.

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I attached the tip to the rudder with the pneumatic pop rivet gun.

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Et viola…

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I attached the rudder to the vertical stabilizer on the workbench. I fit the VS tip with sandpaper and match drilled all the holes #40.

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I used the band saw to cut some foam to back the fiberglass closeout. I test fit the assembly to the VS and used sand paper to gradually reduce the size of the foam until I got an interference fit.

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I mixed up some epoxy resin with glass micro bubbles to . nice thick paste that wouldn’t run.

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…and used it to glue the foam into place.

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Today’s Time (hours): 1.5
Empennage Time (hours): 206.5
Total Time (hours): 206.5

 

Sanded and attached horizontal stabilizer tips

Sanded and fit the HS tip to fit. Before I paint the airplane, these will need to be filled and finish sanded.

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Final drilled #30, dimpled the skins, and machine countersunk the tip.

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I picked up a pneumatic rivet puller at Harbor Freight yesterday. I used it to set the rivets and attach the tips.  So much nicer the the manual puller!

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This completes the work on the horizontal stabilizer and elevators. So I’ve moved them to a safe place until I’m ready to final attach them at the end of the build.

Today’s Time (hours): 1.5
Empennage Time (hours): 205.0
Total Time (hours): 205.0