Finished rear window and started on Canopy Latch

I used the edge roller to break the edge of the top and side skins where they meet the rear window. I final drilled the skins #27 and dimpled the holes for #6 screws. The squeezer wouldn’t fit into the space between the top skin and the roll bar brace. After a fair amount of ass-scratching I tried using a #6 screw and a K1000-06 nut plate to press the dimple into the center hole. It worked well.

I decided to wait until later to actually install the window. This will enable better access to the fuselage and keep me from beating up the window while I’m working on the rest of the stuff. But everything’s done and all I have to do is add some sealant and screw it in. For sealant I’ve decided to try Lexel. It’s a clear solvent based sealant that is safe for acrylic. Other builders have reported good success with it.

 

I separated, deburred, and painted the stiffener angles. I’ll rivet these in place as soon as the paint dries.

 

I picked and inspected all of the parts for the rest of the canopy.

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I peeled all of the parts for the canopy latch mechanism. I separated the peices that needed parting. I deburred and scuffer all the parts. Then painted everything to match the interior.

 

I test fit the canopy latch pins in the bushings that I installed in the roll bar. I realized that I neglected to mask of the bushings when I painted the roll bar and got some paint in there. I wrapped some sand paper around a brass drift and used it to clear the paint. Everything fits fine now.

 

Today’s Time (hours): 4.0
Finish Kit (hours): 18.0
Total Time (hours): 748.0

 

 

Added nutplates

Short build session tonight… Got all the nutplates riveted on to the inboard edge of the tank skins.

The sealant is curing up nicely.

 

I also temporarily installed the fuel senders in order to tweak the float rods to ensure the proper clearances. I’l permanently install them with sealant after I’ve riveted the baffles in place.

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Today’s Time (hours): 1.0
Wing Time (hours): 223.0
Total Time (hours): 375.0

 

Bulkheads Riveted

Clecoed and riveted the F-01412 aft bulkhead and tie down bracket.

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Clecoed and riveted the F-01411 bulkhead and aft horizontal stabilizer attach bars.

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Clecoed and riveted the F-01410 bulkhead and forward horizontal stabilizer attach bars.

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Clecoed and riveted the F-01407 bulkhead.

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Clecoed and riveted the F-01408 bulkhead and rudder cable bracket. Also added the stiffener clips to the bottom of the bulkhead. I believe that these were added to revs of the kit that came out after service bulletin 18-09-17 was issued to address cracking in the forward bottom skin.

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Riveted nut plates to the battery angles. So why are these called battery angles when they have absolutely nothing to do with the battery? In fact the battery isn’t even located in the tail. My guess is that these parts were originally part of the RV-10 kit. The RV-14 borrows parts from other RV’s. So while in the RV-14 they are part of the aft bell crank assembly, in the RV-10 I’ll bet they formed part of the battery box and simply retained their part number and name when they were introduced to the RV-14. If anyone knows for sure, please comment.

The forward nut plate holes do not get nut plates as they are not applicable to the RV-14.

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Riveted the battery angles to the bell crack ribs.

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Riveted nut plates to the F-01406B bulkhead.  Note the discolorations at the bottom of the bulkhead. I managed to scratch the primer moving the part before it was fully cured. So I touched it up. Apparently re-shooting P60G2 creates this discoloration. It seems to have dried properly and doesn’t seem to be problematic; just unsightly.

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Riveted bell crank ribs to the F-01406B bulkhead.

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Clecoed and riveted the F-01407 bulkhead to the bell crank ribs.

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Dimpled the forward bottom skin with the DRDT-2

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Lots of dimples!

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Dimpled the stiffeners.

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Clecoed the bell crank ribs, bulkheads, and stiffeners to the bottom skin.

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Ready to Rivet!

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Today’s Time (hours): 5.0
Empennage Time (hours): 152.0
Total Time (hours): 152.0